August 31, 2016

Wonderful Wednesday #16: Gulush Threads

This sweet Cactus Study PDF pattern by Gulush Threads has fascinating details and gorgeous colors - and at my last check, is on sale.

I first found Gulush Threads through her lovely Instagram feed, @gulushthreads and fell in love with her unique sense of bright color and texture, I highly recommend following her feed to see what she's up to.

Hi, I'm floresita, editor of Feeling Stitchy. I'm an avid stitcher, knitter, and crafter. You can see more of my stitching on Instagram and my blog. My vintage transfer collection is on Vintage Transfer Finds.

Feel free to email me with any ideas for the blog!

August 29, 2016

Mooshiestitch Monday: Plushwork

Plushwork Embroidery

Have you ever heard of plushwork embroidery? It is also called chenille work or Amish stumpwork. 

I had never heard of this technique before until I randomly came across a tutorial for it online - so I decided to try it out and share it with you!

First, you should really check out this awesome tutorial. It includes step by step instructions with excellent photos and a handy pdf template to print the design!

I printed the template, traced and cut out a flower using a cover of a plastic container (specifically from a yogurt container!).

My first try was with Appleton wool on linen fabric.

The technique is very easy to learn -  if you know satin stitch you can do this!

Done with the first layer.

I repeated two more layers of the same wool.

The next step is my favorite - cutting the layers!

Amish Stumpwork

After I cut all the layers I removed the plastic template.

Here is the finished plushwork flower!

See how fluffy! It reminds me of turkey work.

I think it could have used a couple more layers of wool to make it fluffier, especially in the center of the flower, but it was good practice.

Next, I chose a bigger size flower, cut the template out of cardboard instead of plastic - it worked just as well - and I used DMC tapestry wool.

Here it is with one layer of light blue and adding my second layer of dark blue.

Added another layer of dark blue - for a total of three wool layers.

Cut through the layers and remove the template...

Chenille Work

Chenille Work

Notice the difference with the DMC tapestry wool? It is a thicker wool than the Appleton wool. 

Chenille Work

I definitely like the end result with the thicker DMC wool. What do you think?

Chenille work

Have you ever heard of plushwork? 

If you decide to give it a try, be sure to post your photos in the Feeling Stitchy Flickr Group or tag your photos on Instagram!

For more plushwork inspiration, check out this great Pinterest board.

Hi! I'm Michelle (aka Mooshie) and I've been stitching since 2007. I own more embroidery hoops than I will ever need and am a borderline hoarder of floss.

You can find me on my blog, MooshieStitch, Instagram, and on Etsy.

August 26, 2016

Friday Instagram Finds No. 67 with Kristin Axtman

Good morning! It's Amy, back with our 67th edition of Friday Instagram Finds. Today we are featuring @kristinaxtman.

Kristin Axtman is the owner of Brooklyn Haberdashery. She's a stitcher, printer, and urban homesteader - she leads a fun and creative life that you can see on her Instagram feed. I love how she includes her printmaking with embroidery.

A photo posted by Kristin, Brooklyn Haberdashery (@kristinaxtman) on
A photo posted by Kristin, Brooklyn Haberdashery (@kristinaxtman) on

You can find more information about Kristin on her website Brooklyn Haberdashery and on Instagram at @kristinaxtman.

Do you want to be featured on Friday Instagram Finds> Tag your best stitch-related photos with #feelingstitchyig!

Hi, I'm Amy - Hi, I'm Amy. I feature interesting embroidery and stitch-related photos I find on Instagram. I'm a hand embroiderer and maker.

You can find my embroidery and crafts on:
Instagram | Random Acts of Amy | Facebook

August 24, 2016

Wonderful Wednesday #15: Lilipopo

This sweet PDF pattern by Lilipopo on Etsy is filled with adorable details and tiny, tiny stitches.

Hi, I'm floresita, editor of Feeling Stitchy. I'm an avid stitcher, knitter, and crafter. You can see more of my stitching on Instagram and my blog. My vintage transfer collection is on Vintage Transfer Finds.

Feel free to email me with any ideas for the blog!

August 23, 2016

Stitchy Snippets - Susie Vickery

Susie Vickery's textile art incorporates a unique blend of hand embroidery, machine embroidery, collage and animation. Her work is illustrative and often holds a story.

Crow 2 - Watch the animation here.

Vickery is inspired by her work with communities on rural and refugee development projects in Nepal, Tibet, Myanmar and India and she 'draws on issues of iconography, identity, gender and Asian art'.


Initially working as a costumier in film and TV for more than twenty years, Vickery's needlework skill is fundamental to her work.


My favourite piece is from the 'Sweatshops' collection and it's a row of animated machinists. Cotton reels and rulers are used to create the models. The piece is so beautifully crafted and it presents such a powerful message.

Please visit Susie Vickery's website to find out more about her work.

Hi, I'm Julia - an embroidery enthusiast based in Amsterdam with a lifelong passion for textiles. I like to mix things up by combining different techniques and mediums - my origami styled dress won the Hand & Lock embroidery prize. Join me on my exploration of embroidery with mixed media and fibre art.

August 19, 2016

Friday Instagram Finds No. 66 featuring Lady Scrib

Good morning - today's post is brought to you by floresita, as Amy is recovering from a bug! Today we are featuring @lady_scrib on Instagram.

Lady Scrib Design & Embroidery is the brainchild of Kassie Scribner, a designer based in Salt Lake City, Utah. I am loving the creativity of her style, her use of bright, happy colors, and the beautiful detailed quality of her stitching, especially on lettering, which can be so hard to do.

Beautiful work, Kassie, and get well soon, Amy! You can find more of Kassie's work on her site, Lady Scrib Design & Embroidery and on Instagram @lady_scrib.

Want to be featured in Friday Instagram Finds? Tag your best stitch-related photos with #feelingstitchyig!

Hi, I'm floresita, editor of Feeling Stitchy. I'm an avid stitcher, knitter, and crafter. You can see more of my stitching on Instagram and my blog. My vintage transfer collection is on Vintage Transfer Finds.

Feel free to email me with any ideas for the blog!

August 17, 2016

Wonderful Wednesday #14: Maggie Gee Needlework

Flanders Poppy Embroidery Kit by Maggie Gee Needlework

This Flanders Poppy Kit by Maggie Gee Needlework looks like a wonderfully complete kit - with linen, flosses, needles, backing, and stitch glossaries included. As if that were not lovely enough, according to her Etsy page, 10% of the sales of this kit go to the UK charity 'Help for Heroes' until 2018.

This definitely looks to be advanced needlework, so if you're looking for an extra challenge, this could be a perfect kit for you.

Hi, I'm floresita, editor of Feeling Stitchy. I'm an avid stitcher, knitter, and crafter. You can see more of my stitching on Instagram and my blog. My vintage transfer collection is on Vintage Transfer Finds.

Feel free to email me with any ideas for the blog!

August 16, 2016

Tutorial: Double Brussels Needle Lace Stitch

Today's tutorial is a guest post by needleworker Catherine Thomas - enjoy!

  • 10 cm embroidery hoop
  • A piece of cotton fabric about 20 x 20 cm
  • A piece of interfacing ironed onto the cotton fabric for added support
  • Two colors of DMC 6 strand embroidery floss (two different colours will make it easier to distinguish each type of stitch while learning! I have used red 3801 and blue 798)
  • Size 9 sharp needle
  • Size 24 tapestry needle

Step One
Begin by drawing your circle onto your fabric. I have used a HB pencil, as you will cover the line with stitching. My circle is 5.5cm in diameter. Take your first DMC and cut a length of thread approximately 45cm. Then take one strand of thread from the six to begin your work. Only one strand of thread will be used throughout the tutorial. Thread this into your size 9 sharp needle.

You can begin with a waste knot to the side of your work. This is created by placing a knot at the end of your working thread and coming down from the top of your work to the bottom with your needle. The knot should sit to the outside of the shape with a tail (to the back of your work) that is long enough to be cut and wound into your work once your stitching line is complete.

Step Two
Next you will begin your outline around the circle. The outline is stitched with backstitch. To make a backstitch I come from the back of my fabric and go down into the top of my fabric on the line with my needle and thread. The next stitch is made by coming up approximately 5mm from the last stitch from the back of my work and then going back down again with my needle and thread sharing the hole with the end of my first stitch.

Step Three

Backstitch around your circle until it is complete. Take your needle and thread to the back of your work and wind your ends into the stitches on the back for about 1.5cm. Then cut off your thread as close to your stitching as possible.

It is at this point you can also cut your waste knot off and wind your thread end into the back of the backstitch outline.

Step Four
We are now going to bring in the thread that you will use to stitch the needlelace stitch. Cut your working thread to approximately 45cm in length. Come in from the back of your work and weave your new thread with your needle around the backstitch threads to begin (this is so you will not need a waste knot).

Step Five
Bring your needle and thread to the front of your work through the fabric onto the backstitch outline. You want the thread to be at the top of your circle. Once you have done this lay your needle across the circle top. Put a mark on the other side so you get an idea where you will need to travel to with your stitches. You will not always have to do this, it is just for teaching purposes so you can find where you will end up with your stitching line and help keep your lines of stitching straight.

This is the only time that you will move the working thread from the back to the front of your work (unless you are bringing in a new thread, which is explained latter in Step 12). You work your lace stitches on top not into the fabric. Use your size 24 tapestry needle which is blunt on the end and will not easily pierce through your fabric or the stitches you are about to create. You will use this needle to create your needlelace stitches.

Step Six
Let’s begin the really fun part, making our needlelace stiches. Begin by making a button hole stitch through your backstitch line. You want to go under this line to anchor your stitch. You will come out a little from the side of your backstitch line to create a small loop from the side. Don’t try and make the buttonhole close to the edge. Let the loop form.

Although this backstitch line is made up of little tiny stitches, I want you to forget about this and pretend that it is one solid line that you are stitching into. Use your eye as a guide to where your stitches should go, don’t try and follow the tiny stitches.

Step Seven
Once you have made your first buttonhole stitch I want you to make a buttonhole stitch very close to the next one. Once again you will need to make your stitch under the back stitch line to anchor it. As the diagram shows you have a loop with two buttonhole stitches close together.

Step Eight
Your next step is to leave another little loop, simply by leaving a small gap between the next pair of buttonhole stitches and so on. This pattern consists of a loop then two buttonhole stitches stitched closely together then another loop. It is called a Double Brussels stitch. You will continue the pattern until you reach the right hand side of your circle.

Step Nine
Once you have reached the end of your line of stitching you must now anchor your thread. You do this by taking your needle and thread under the backstitch line through to the outside of the shape.

Step Ten
The needle and thread must then come back inside of the shape to begin the next row of stitching. Bring the needle and thread back under the backstitch line about 3mm down the edge of the outline. Roughly the same width as the stitching line made above.

It is at this point that you do have to be a little mindful of the small backstitch stitches. If you have not made your back stitches small enough, and take the needle and thread in and out of the one stitch (red), you will not be able to anchor your working thread (blue).

Step Eleven
To make our next line of stitching, make the pair of buttonhole stitches into the loops that were formed in the previous row. By doing this we will create a large enough loop between the pairs of buttonhole stitch so that we can complete the pairs of buttonhole stitches in the following rows and so on.

Once you get to the left-hand side of the row we again bring your needle and thread under the backstitch line to the outside of the shape. You will then come back under the line with the needle and thread to the inside of the shape to complete the next row.

Step Twelve
Occasionally you may not be able to complete the entire pattern. You may only have room for part of a pattern as your shape increases or decreases in width. The trick then is to complete as much of the pattern as you possibly can. For example this may mean only one of the two buttonholes from the pattern can be stitched (as in the picture above). With needlelace it is often about the complete pattern created by your shape, not just an individual line, so get as much of the pattern in as you can in one row but don’t worry if you can’t get it all!

Also, you cannot begin a new thread in the middle of the line of stitching with needlelace, so it is important to make sure that at the beginning of each row you have enough thread to get across. If you are unsure, lay your threads across your work and if you have approximately enough thread to get across your shape three times you will have enough thread to complete a row.

If you do not have enough thread to finish a row, bring your working thread and needle to the back of your work by piercing the fabric and wind your end into the backstitch outline then cut thread close to fabric. To bring in a new thread repeat step 4 making sure that when you bring the working thread and needle to the front of your work you have left the right width (width of the rows above) to start the next stitching row. Remember to change your needle to the size 9 sharp to bring the working thread through your fabric, but return to the size 24 tapestry when lacing.

Step Thirteen
Now you have worked your Double Brussels stitch to the end of your shape and have a gap between the end of your shape and the stitching row that is approximately the width of the stitching rows above. You can now finish off your shape.

To finish, take the working needle and thread under the backstitch line to the outside of your shape and then bring the thread and needle back into the inside of the shape. This time you go over the top of the backstitch line not under the line as you have previously. As you do this you want to catch the bottom of the loop of the pattern and wind your thread over it so it pulls in down to the backstitch line. You are whipstitching the lacing stitches to the outline of your shape.

You then take the working needle and thread that is holding the loop back down under the backstitch line and out of the shape. Come back into the shape and catch the loop a second time so it is caught twice and repeat the process.

Why do you anchor your loops down twice? By catching that loop twice you are continuing to create the ‘look’ of the pattern even though you are finishing off. It helps the work to sit nicely.

Step Fourteen
Once you have caught each of the loops twice, run your working needle and thread to the outside of the shape and take the needle and thread to the back of your work.

Wind then the working needle and thread (blue) into the backstitch line (red) to finish off and then cut your working thread (blue) close to your work.

Congratulations you have just created a shape filled with needlelace!

So what can I do with this stitch you may ask. Well, how about working your circle shape onto paper and repeating the steps above to create some beautiful cards. You can create a card like mine below by painting the back ground of your card and using contrasting threads to work your needlelace (or different threads like metallics) to create interesting effects.

Why stop at a circle! Oval shapes make for beautiful flower petals, fairy wings or the wings of butterflies. Go on and see where this beautiful form of lace making can take you.

My work is often three-dimensional which means that I create an outline that can be removed from the background that I am working on and then wire is added creating a supporting frame for my stitches. This I will leave for another tutorial if you are interested!


Thank you, Catherine, for this wonderful guest tutorial on Needle Lace! To see more of Catherine's designs, please visit her at or follow Catherine on Instagram @catherinethomasneedlelace.