Diary of an Intern: Julia at Hand and Lock

Some weeks have passed since I completed my internship at Hand & Lock. Now I am back to my old routine in cosy Amsterdam and the hustle and bustle of central London feels a million miles away. The exceptional experience I had during the last few months at Hand & Lock has given me a far greater understanding of the industry of couture embellishment and in particular the various items that embroidery is applied to. Of course, with great effort I managed to pick up new techniques and am at a stage where the more you learn, the more you realise how much you don't know. It is the skill and mastery of craftspeople that I admire so much.

Embroidery belongs to a rich and diverse history which spans across the globe. The spirit of cultures expressed through distinct motifs, designs and even the technique applied leaves traces of a geographical location and tradition. Threads of a memory weave through the fabric, the material worked with the hand, each piece unique, telling a silent story. Perhaps this is an aspect of the handwork which makes it so appealing to both creator and observer alike; the human interaction in creating beauty and art. It is interesting to map how an ageing art form such as embroidery remains fresh and relevant today. Contemporary embroidery reflects and interprets modern day culture and society through themes and style.

German philosopher Immanuel Kant stated that 'the hand is the window on to the mind'. In his book The Craftsman, Richard Sennett discusses this theory that 'making is thinking'. Sennett explains that because hands are our most versatile and dexterous limbs that we can acquire vast and detailed knowledge by using them directly to learn a new skill. The process has a string of steps from initial exploration led by natural inclination, followed by repetition to a point of understanding and confidence in the technique which can then be developed and mastered. Sennett believes that we are all intrinsically Craftsmen or Craftspeople and that it is inherent in us to take pride in doing something well, whether it's baking brownies or developing an app for the smart phone.

This mastery of technique occasionally conflicts with today's fast paced world as it requires a more meditative approach, one of patience and perseverance. Centuries ago Hand & Lock was one of the many ateliers where students would embark in an apprenticeship. Often it could be years before the apprentices were considered competent and on course to becoming a master. 

Continuing with tradition with a modern twist Hand & Lock are currently holding their annual Festival of Embroidery which is a celebration of all things embellished. Industry professionals are lecturing about lots of topical subjects and a variety of specialised workshops are held at the historical atelier.

With communities across the world interacting through the ease of the web, as here on Feeling Stitchy, a new kind of learning is possible. People passing on skills, discussing technique, giving feedback and talking about their experience helps us all become the craftsperson that we are at heart.

Diary of an Intern: Julia at Hand and Lock, week 5

According to the Danish Fashion Institute's study in 2013, Fashion is the second most polluting industry after oil. Big fashion designers and individuals are pushing for a more ethical and sustainable industry and the new Fashion Revolution Day promotes this movement. Fast fashion is likened to 'junk food' and consumers are urged to seek out a more ethical product and 'up-cycle' old clothes as well as acquiring new skills to make their own.

The addition of a monogram gives an item a unique touch which seems to appeal to our increasing need for real worth and reflects a rejection of throwaway consumerism as Lizzi Walton, organizer of SITselect craft Festival explains. "In a world of bland mass production, to own something individual is enhancing. It’s a pleasure to have something that is made with love and made by hand. Sometimes to have less is better." This recent flow of consumers towards hand crafted and artisan products (often more ethically produced due to their nature) is a big reason for an increased popularity in monogramming as it gives a garment a refined bespoke finish and by doing so can allow it longevity, as it becomes part of the owner's capsule wardrobe.

In the last couple of weeks I've decided to learn more about monogramming. I was kindly invited to join a weekend course at Hand & Lock where I picked up some of the essentials of this intricate technique. Monogramming work makes up a core element of the business at Hand & Lock, which has led me on a quest to discover what this type of embroidery entails and why it is so popular.

We are all partial to a personalised item from mugs to stationary and linen to luggage. This type of customisation certainly befits fashion and has been trending in recent years. What was once an embellishment mainly adorned by the Savile Row society is now sought after by the many and is certainly a fashionable way to stand out from the crowd. Consumers are less interested in elaborate logos, so the appeal of a monogram also ties into our cyber world of acronyms and avatars and acts as a way to brand ourselves. Moreover it allows the buyer to get involved in the design process and gives them a greater attachment to the product.

A constant stream of customers come to Hand & Lock to have their goods monogrammed. The house is renowned for its outstanding quality of hand embroidered work and they have also moved into the 21st century to offer machine embroidery at an affordable price, thus a wide range of orders are delivered. Clients can vary: a business tycoon requiring their shirt to be initialled, a mechanic ordering a well considered gift of a monogrammed shammy leather cloth for his co-worker or a lady wishing to personalise an heirloom for a wedding present.

Typically it can take a professional embroiderer a few months to master the technique. Different guidelines are adopted to execute the variety of letters in the Latin alphabet and when an array of font styles are added to the mix then an additional set of rules are applied, making this embroidery work relatively complex. Hand & Lock have their own particular way of monogramming which ensures that all of the embroidery work that leaves the house is uniform and has exactly the same finish.

Many businessmen initial their garments such as shirts, coats and ties. Surprisingly some will even have their socks and boxers labelled. Could this be a die hard habit that harks back to life at private and boarding schools? Traditionally these types of application of monogramming was reserved for wealthy gentlemen and dates back centuries. It is certainly a statement of status amongst peers and a way of adding a delicately customised finish to a bespoke garment. This could be the ultimate expression of luxury especially in men's fashion when compared to women's; where it's easier to add a personal touch to an outfit with a handbag or printed blouse, for example.

For such a small and intricate embellishment there is a variety of customisations available and even an 'etiquette' of how initials should be combined. A larger edged font in a bold contrasting colour can have a very different effect to a soft script monogram subtly embroidered in the same colour silk as the garment. I've also discovered that often a monogram will be placed on a part of the clothing that is not visible to the public, such as by the hem of a shirt. Although this may seem frivolous in fact it demonstrates the growing trend in ownership of a one of a kind item.

The monogram does not only have to be elaborate and act as a personal emblem. It can also be a discreet symbol of a well-loved garment that can make the owner feel special when wearing it. The customer's input in the creation of an item clearly initiates a greater connection between owner and product. By leaving their stamp on a product the owner gives it a form of identity which adds greatly to its purpose. This will become an increasingly, more important aspect of design in a diluted market that is dominated by over consumption.

Hi, I'm Julia! Based in Amsterdam, I am an embroidery enthusiast with a life long passion for textiles. I will be contributing during my work placement at the prestigious Hand and Lock a London based, embroidery and embellishment company with 250 years of heritage.

Join me every other Friday for my Diary of an Intern posts!
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Diary of an Intern: Julia at Hand and Lock, week 4

Image by Sophia Spring

This week I am going to tackle the million dollar question: Are unpaid internships a fair exchange? I expect that you have an opinion on this subject and it would be great to open a discussion and read your views. The debate about unpaid internships has recently erupted during the run up to the British political election. Should the U.K. Labour party gain power they promise to introduce a time limit of four weeks on unpaid internships.

Image by Sophia Spring

In the U.K. internships have become a recognised path to gaining a first level position in many work sectors from fashion, media and music to finance and technology. The Labour party argue that unpaid internships block the job market by restricting access to this fundamental first stage in many competitive careers to only the wealthiest individuals. Last year many corporations stated that almost half of all graduate positions would be reserved for those who can demonstrate previous work experience. Naturally students and graduates relax their work rights in order to follow their passion.

Image by Sophia Spring

According to the Independent, an average unpaid internship in the U.K. lasts three months and in London it usually costs more than £930.00 per month in living expenses. (article) This is not a venture one could embark on lightly and obviously requires a great deal of funding. Fortunate students and graduates are funded by their parents, however this is not the only route. Many people take a weekend or evening job to supplement living costs. In my case I have used savings and I would suggest that taking a year out to work and save some cash is a possible solution.

When googling 'Fashion Internships' a host of horror stories can be found. Big and small fashion houses rely on interns to carry out an integral job. This begs the question of how these companies’ business model is structured; by using free labour huge savings can be made. Some designers have stated that their business simply wouldn't survive without interns. Cozette McCreery of Sibling resigns that “Their (interns) time is important and their input into the workings and production of a collection is really vital.” (article). No wonder that interns struggle under the pressure, or worse, not only from a colossal 12 hour day and 80 hour working week but the absolute necessity to work at great speed and produce impeccably perfect results as though they had been doing the job for years. Obviously this means that the end result may suffer and the consumer has to also pay the price for this oversight.

Is this business behaviour more a reflection of the entire industry? The fashion industry is known for scandals regarding the treatment of paid factory workers, for instance. Much of the Italian high-end fashion is produced in unscrupulous sweatshops spread across Northern Italy where Chinese immigrants are brought over illegally to work in squalid and cramped conditions.

In contrast my experience at Hand & Lock has been beneficial to me and I have learnt a great deal. From the beginning the staff have been very accommodating by agreeing to a four day working week as well as informing me that a working day starts at 10:00 and finishes at 16:30.

The majority of my day is filled with embroidery based work and my colleagues are on hand to ask for advice and feedback. After only eight weeks here, I feel like I’m part of the extended Hand & Lock family. This is a far cry from some other intern’s experiences.

Image by Sophia Spring

I support the importance of work experience for graduates or somebody entering a field of work, whether it is paid or not. The confidence and practice garnered will hold me in good stead for the future whether it leads directly to paid employment in the industry or not. On the other hand where internships are misinterpreted by employers as a replacement for a paid position and the eagerness of the worker is exploited, perhaps here in the U.K, a new law and better investigation by the authorities may lead to a positive change. It could also provide clarity to business and re-affirm a benchmark for business standards.

We, the interns, also have some power in making this change and have the option to choose what we accept. It’s important to know what you hope to gain from an internship and to stand firm. I would recommend first researching which companies are known for offering decent internships and which are not: http://www.jobsite.co.uk/worklife/intern-heaven-intern-hell-10960/

The big names are not always the best option as sometimes you can learn more from a company that is in its initial stages of growing the business. Remember that within each industry these ‘horror’ experiences are well known and it is preferable when seeking further employment to be clear about what you expect for yourself in terms of payment and rights.

Please join the debate by commenting below - I look forward to reading your experiences.

Hi, I'm Julia! Based in Amsterdam, I am an embroidery enthusiast with a life long passion for textiles. I will be contributing during my work placement at the prestigious Hand and Lock a London based, embroidery and embellishment company with 250 years of heritage.

Join me every other Friday for my Diary of an Intern posts!
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Diary of an Intern: Julia at Hand and Lock, week 3

During my work placement I have been consistently inspired and sometimes overwhelmed. From the environment to the array of exquisite samples and materials, there is continually something which whets my creative appetite.

Hand & Lock’s quintessentially English meeting room is known in-house as the ‘bead room’. Its walls are decorated with lush embroidery samples and military regalia. Ceiling-high cabinets line the edge of the room and house a vast variety of beads and an extensive collection of samples. I believe it could take a day or two to peruse through the entire archive. Each design is different and almost every type of embroidery is displayed. It’s such a pleasure to be able to thumb through such a beautiful collection. I quietly imagine the ways I could apply some of these techniques and styles to my own work and how I could adapt them. Although I will have to learn how to execute them first.

Certainly another great inspiration for me is the array of materials. It’s also interesting to learn why each piece is selected for use. One reason is that the fabrics, beads, threads and other decorative objects all project a particular impression and impact and the way that they interact with each other also plays an integral factor. I am also noticing how a particular material can be fundamental to a design. In using an object which is not commonly adopted in couture embellishment the unusual texture and shapes can project a different effect.

For instance, the Hand & Lock embellishments created for the Louis Vuitton and Terence Koh limited-edition menswear collection incorporate paint brush bristles and only the metal casings from gemstones:

The collection features lavish and extraordinary designs by the artist Terence Koh and the unusual materials used by the Hand & Lock team complements the artist’s quirky style.

Most importantly, a primary source of inspiration for me is the environment itself and the people in it. When I take a moment to look around the atelier I see inspiration at every angle. Creativity almost pulses under its beams.

Hi, I'm Julia! Based in Amsterdam, I am an embroidery enthusiast with a life long passion for textiles. I will be contributing during my work placement at the prestigious Hand and Lock a London based, embroidery and embellishment company with 250 years of heritage.

Join me every other Friday for my Diary of an Intern posts!
Find me on Facebook.

Diary of an Intern: Julia at Hand and Lock, week 2

Hello fellow stitchers, I'm back with my latest update about my work experience at Hand and Lock. As it draws near to a month since I started my internship, it feels I've reached a milestone. Reflecting back on the last two weeks, I recognise I am currently on the steep rise of the 'learning curve'. As tasks have become more complicated it sometimes feels I am taking one step forward and two steps back.

However, through this hindsight I notice how much I am absorbing and learning from watching, listening and through my own practice. I suppose this process can be likened to any newly learnt skill. Working with such outstanding and talented embroiderers and designers can be overwhelming and it has amplified how much more I wish to grow. This really is a once in a lifetime opportunity to develop my skills as much as I possibly can.

Spring is in the air in London and Hand and Lock are currently sampling for their Spring Summer 2016 collection. It’s really exciting as we are also able to contribute ideas. As interns we are generating embellishment samples and this week I have been given the creative freedom to create some fabric origami samples.

I had explored this technique with the dress that I made for the Hand and Lock Prize. It has been a lot of fun to experiment further with new patterns and concepts. I have been working on a shell motif which may be layered to give detail. Where the paper is normally folded in regular origami, here we have applied a pleat. I could happily while away many hours doing fabric origami.

Another real joy during the last two weeks has been becoming familiar with the different applications of embroidery depending upon its purpose. For example embellishment on a shoe, sash, scarf or military uniform can require a different approach. To begin with the obvious, different needles and threads should be used depending upon the material and expected result. Some tasks are better to work in an embroidery hoop and others in a frame. When applying a stitch, account needs to be taken into the precise angle of the needle along with careful manipulation of the thread as it travels through the material.

At the moment I am stitching hand embroidered badges onto leather, which will eventually be made into slippers. They are adorable 'coats of arms' framed by two bunny rabbits. However these two harmless emblems have proved quite a challenge for me. Understandably they should be attached with an 'invisible' stitch and they are to be edged in gold. The most challenging aspect for me was anchoring these delicate badges so that they remained precisely in position whilst sewing through a tough fabric. This may sound straight forward but it is a little trickier than it seems as you can't simply pin them because it will damage the handwork.

Following a traditional and meticulous method has been my solution to the task and now it is well underway. The best part about it nearing the end of the month is that I feel I have learnt so much already and there are still two more months left.

Hi, I'm Julia! Based in Amsterdam, I am an embroidery enthusiast with a life long passion for textiles. I will be contributing during my work placement at the prestigious Hand and Lock a London based, embroidery and embellishment company with 250 years of heritage.

Join me every other Friday for my Diary of an Intern posts!
Find me on Facebook.

Diary of an Intern: Julia at Hand and Lock

I am beyond excited to introduce our newest guest blogger - Julia Titchfield, an intern at the UK embroidery company, Hand and Lock. In her Diary of an Intern series, she'll be blogging all about her experiences as an intern. A tremendously talented embroiderer, she won last year's open category prize at Hand and Lock. Please welcome Julia!

Feeling Stitchy have kindly invited me to contribute for the coming weeks during my work placement at the prestigious, London based, embroidery and embellishment company called Hand and Lock. I am excited to share my experience with you and welcome your thoughts. With 250 years of heritage, Hand and Lock are at the forefront in the industry. Obviously I leapt at the chance to do an internship; to see behind the doors of this famous embroidery house and more importantly to pick up some invaluable skills of this ancient art.

My entry into the industry has been pretty magical in many ways. Last year I participated in the company's annual, international embroidery competition and to my astonishment and delight I walked away with first prize for the open category! I too am an embroidery enthusiast and initially I entered this competition to push myself and develop my skills with the aim of producing something that could be the start of a portfolio. You can imagine my surprise at the reception my work has received. I suggest that we all dare to dream and allow ourselves to reach our potential. So go on dare, have a go at the prize!

It feels this is the start of my journey into the world of textiles and surface embellishment and I'm filled with excitement about what the future holds in terms of lush fabrics and fine finishes and the techniques I may acquire in order to accomplish my vision.

My first impression was how cosy the workshop is combined with a feeling of stepping into the rich history of this elusive craft. Embroiderers sit silently at large frames. Heavy wooden furniture adorns the room, holding many small drawers filled with an array of threads, silks, beads and sequins. Like a kid in a sweet shop it is a real treat! I have yet to explore the sample room which is home to tambour beaded, goldworked and silk shaded treasures.

The range of clients is also very intriguing. From the theatre and film to high profile individuals such as an extremely wealthy sheikh. Amongst my tasks, so far, I have pimped up a pair of sneakers with no less than Swarovski crystals fixed to the soles to be used for a music video. That posed some tricky challenges on how to achieve a secure and clean finish.

One very important lesson in the last week has been about working tempo, which I'm still improving on. Here it's a whole different approach from my slow and steady working mode to that of professionals in industry working to daily and hourly deadlines. As well as experience and confidence in technique, it's also a question of knowing when to swiftly move through each stage of the process without lingering too long on each part in that futile search for perfection.

It's fantastic to feel I'm part of this dynamic team and to become familiar with the inner working cogs of such an established embroidery house. For now I'm going to take each step at a time.

Hi, I'm Julia! Based in Amsterdam, I am an embroidery enthusiast with a life long passion for textiles. I will be contributing during my work placement at the prestigious Hand and Lock a London based, embroidery and embellishment company with 250 years of heritage.

Join me every other Friday for my Diary of an Intern posts!
Find me on Facebook.