Thimblenest Thursday (well, Wednesday): Last-Minute Gift Card/Cash Holder

It seems to be a new Christmas tradition with me to need to pull together a creative way to give a gift card/cash at the last minute. I find myself in the same position this year and thought I'd share it with Feeling Stitchy readers, too!

These mittens can be left plain or embroidered/embellished in any number of ways: initials, random designs/embroidery stitches, Christmas motifs, etc. A holly motif is included with the mitten template.

MATERIALS

Most likely you'll have the materials that you need on hand. Here's what you need to gather:

• 1 sheet of felt
• freezer paper
• embroidery thread
• 4" length of ribbon
• Mitten template
• chalk or other fabric marking tool
• scissors
• ruler

TUTORIAL

Print the mitten template onto freezer paper. Cut out both mitten templates and iron onto the piece of felt. Be careful not to iron for too long--I'm not sure how well non-wool felt holds up to heat. Cut out the mitten piece that will be the back of the holder and remove the freezer paper. 

Trace around the front mitten piece. My rotary chalk marker was the only thing I had on hand that left a visible mark on the felt; unfortunately, it also snagged/scuffed the felt.

Mark stitching lines or other motifs on the front of the mitten. I used 4 lines, spaced 1/2" apart for the running stitches I made.

Embroider the motif or design. Then, cut out the mitten front around the outer edge.

Fold the ribbon in half and stitch in place at the inside middle top of the back mitten piece.

Align the top embroidered mitten piece over the back mitten piece. Hand or machine stitch the outside edges together, leaving the top (mitten cuff) edge open.

Insert your gift card or money and hang it on the Christmas tree!

Thimblenest Thursdays: Summer/Winter Stitchalong, Week 3

Here we are, halfway through the Summer/Winter Stitchalong, though thankfully not halfway through summer itself! The next two weeks are all about stitching the letter "T", and is this ever a fun one!


First grab your AUTUMN "T" embroidery pattern, and then let's take closer look at the colors and stitches I used.

For the letter "T":

Outline: 3 strands, DMC 154, chain stitch

Inside of the T: 3 strands, DMC 154 and 720. I used "laid stitch with cross-stitch couching", which was really fun. It went quickly, but I think it gives a nice, clean look when finished. I followed these directions (scroll down the page).

Thistles: 3 strands, DMC 327, 728, & 3852, stem stitch.

As always please share this or any other Feeling Stitchy-inspired embroidery projects in the Flickr Group or on Instagram with #feelingstitchy!

Thimblenest Thursdays: Summer/Winter Stitchalong, Week 2

It's time for the second letter in our AUTUMN banner for our Summer/Winter Stitchalong. If you want to know more about the project, you can find the details in the kick-off post here.

MATERIALS

Linen rectangle

Letter "U" Stitchalong Design

Embroidery Floss: DMC #350, 352, 720, and 779

PROCEDURE

Once again, this project is meant to be one means of having fun with your stitches and trying new techniques--we're not looking for perfection. I'm focusing on different ways of using the running stitch and cross stitch, but you can do whatever you like!

For this week's letter "U", I again outlined the letter with chain stitch, using 3 strands of DMC 779. For the interior running stitch I used 3 strands of DMC 350, and then wove 3 strands of DMC 352 through the running stitch back and forth from left to right in what I like to think of as a slalom pattern.

For the Mountain Ash berries (common during the fall in the Pacific Northwest) I outlined with 2 strands of DMC 720 using stem stitch. These are especially finicky and in retrospect, I think backstitch would have worked better here.

The stems were stitched with stem stitch (imagine that!), using 1 strand of DMC 779. I altered the berry bottoms from what you will see on the pattern--the 5-star type design on the bottom of the berries was too difficult to stitch nicely, so I changed mine to a simple cross stitch of 1 strand of DMC 779.

How are your Autumn banner designs coming along? We would love to see them, so please share in the Feeling Stitchy Flickr group or on Instagram with #feelingstitchy. There's still plenty of time to join in!

Our stitchalong will return in two weeks with the letter T! Happy Stitching!

Thimblenest Thursdays: Summer/Winter Stitchalong, Week 1

Welcome to Week 1 of the Feeling Stitchy Summer~Winter Stitchalong! Whether you're traveling cross country on a road trip or sitting by the pool in the Northern Hemisphere or cozying up with a cup of tea and your favorite sweater in the Southern Hemisphere, it's the perfect season for an embroidery project!

Every two weeks over the next three months I'll be posting a new design for the project with stitch tips/suggestions and hopefully some photos featuring your stitching from previous weeks! (Be sure to share your work in the Feeling Stitchy Flickr group and on Instagram with #feelingstitchy!)

When the Stitchalong is finished, you'll have everything you need ready to stitch together an "AUTUMN" banner/bunting, just as the seasons change once again (sorry, Southern Hemisphere, this is the only part I couldn't get to work out for you, too!).

Since this is Week 1, we have a lot to go over. First, let's gather our materials . . .

MATERIALS

• 6* (or more)  9" x 7" (23 cm x 18 cm) fabric rectangles for embroidering (I'm using linen, but choose whatever you like best!)
• embroidery floss (suggested color palette below)
• AUTUMN embroidery design (get week 1 here)
• embroidery transfer pen, etc.
• embroidery hoop
• pinking shears
• sewing machine
• 6* (or more)  9" x 7" (23 cm x 18 cm) fabric rectangles for backing**
• 6* (or more) 8.5" x 6.5" (21.5 cm x 16.5 cm) rectangles of lightweight iron-on interfacing**
• 1 package/3 yards extra wide double-fold bias tape (or make your own)

*Cut more than 6 if you think you would like to add autumn motifs (provided) to your bunting (in addition to the letters).

**When finished, your embroidered pieces can either be left as-is, or you can back them with a light interfacing and coordinating quilting cotton.

SUGGESTED COLOR PALETTE

The colors above are the ones I'll be pulling from as I stitch each letter; there's no guarantee that I'll actually use all of them by the end of the Stitchalong, but I just couldn't bear to leave any behind. DMC floss from left to right: 779, 327, 154, 350, 352, 721, 720, 728, and 3852.

Prep Fabric

If you plan on backing your embroidered fabric, serge, pink, or zigzag the edges of the linen so it doesn't fray while you're embroidering.

If you don't plan on backing your finished letters, just use pinking shears when you're cutting the rectangles out.

This Week's Letter: A

Click here for the Week 1 embroidery design.

I'm hoping each week's letter design will be accessible for all levels of stitchers, since this is meant to be a laid-back, un-stressful experience. I'm basing most of the stitch ideas off of the running stitch and cross stitch, after finding this gem of a resource. Each week I'll show you what I did, but you can adapt/change/throw my ideas out as you see fit--make this yours!

Here's what I did with the Letter A; for all stitches I used 3 strands of embroidery floss:

• Chain stitch outline (DMC 720)
• Vertical interior running stitch (DMC 154)
• "Zig zag" between running stitches (DMC 728)
• Acorn bottoms (DMC 3852)
• Acorn "caps" (DMC 154)--3 strands was too much here; I should have used only 1 or 2.

Any questions?--I'll check the comments below. Otherwise, I'll be looking for your fabulous stitching in the Flickr Group and on Instagram and we'll meet back here in two weeks for the next letter! Happy Stitching!

Thimblenest Thursdays: Embroidered bookmark for summer reading

Summer reading lists are popping up everywhere as people anticipate the laid-back days that often come with warmer weather. As much as I enjoy technology, I'm still pretty old-school when it comes to books: there's just something about the weight of a book in your hand and the feel of paper on your fingers as you turn a page. I have a bad habit of dog-earing pages (even in library books--shhh!), so maybe a new bookmark will start me on a new path. So, regardless of whether your summer (or winter) reading is required or purely for leisure, join me in creating an embroidered bookmark!

MATERIALS

13" of 2" wide ribbon

6" x 6" square of fabric

2" x 2" square of lightweight iron-on interfacing

file with two flower designs and square template (1.8" x 1.8") or choose your own
Embroidery floss
Pinking shears
Water soluble fabric marker

Transfer and embroider the design on the 6" x 6" fabric square.

Iron the interfacing to the backside of the embroidered design.

If using the square template provided, cut out the inside of the square without cutting through any of the square's edges. Center the resulting square hole over your embroidered design and trace a square around it with the water soluble fabric marker.

Use pinking shears to cut out the design, following the square's outline.

Fold the ends of the ribbon under twice--1/4" each time and sew in place. The open weave of my ribbon made stitching a little tricky. If your ribbon won't fray you can cut an inverted triangle at each end instead of stitching. 

Position the embroidered square wherever you would like on the ribbon and hand- or machine-stitch in place using a scant 1/8" seam allowance.

Pop your finished bookmark in your latest read and head for the nearest beach, hammock, or hearth (for those in the Southern Hemisphere!).

What's on your to-read list for this summer/winter?

P.S. In two weeks I'll be back to kick off a stitch-along that will span June, July, and August; the end result will be a fun project to add to your autumn decor. See you then!

Thimblenest Thursdays: How to Display Small Embroidery Designs on Canvas

I've always wanted to try mounting a finished embroidery piece on artist's canvas. However, when I went to display a set of three finished designs on canvases, I discovered that on two of the designs I hadn't left enough surrounding fabric to attach them to the frames. So this week you get two tutorials in one: one for extending the size of small finished pieces and one for mounting the entire piece to a prepared canvas. Let's get started!

MATERIALS 

(dimensions given are for my specific project; this tutorial can easily be adapted for projects of any size)

• 8" x 10" (20 cm x 25.5 cm) artist's canvas (thrifted or new)
• 12" x "15" (30.5 cm x 38 cm) piece of quilting cotton or other fabric (base)
• 7" x 8" (18 cm x 20 cm) piece of quilting cotton (backing/"frame" for embroidered piece)
• 6" x 7" (15 cm x 18 cm) finished embroidery design
• Staple gun
• Painters tape
• ruler/measuring tape

PREPARE BASE CLOTH & CANVAS

If you are using thrifted canvases and your fabric is light colored, double-check to see if the paint on the canvas shows through. In my case it did, so I painted the canvas white. When I ran out of paint for my three canvases, I ended up affixing a white piece of paper to the canvas instead.

Serge the edges of the large base rectangle (12" x 15") or finish with pinking shears. I will not use the cotton muslin I chose again--it was almost impossible to get the wrinkles out and my iron left marks on the fabric.

EXTEND SMALL PIECES TO FIT CANVAS

(if your finished embroidery piece is large enough to fit on the canvas by itself, you can skip to the "Mount to Canvas" instructions below)

Turn the edges of the embroidered piece (6" x 7") under 1/2"; turn the edges of the backing piece (7" x 8") under 1/4".

Center the embroidered fabric on top of the backing rectangle. You can eyeball this or check it with your ruler. Pin and edgestitch together.

Now center your piece from the previous step in the middle of your 12" x 15" base cloth. It's best to check this carefully with a ruler or measuring tape since you want everything to center nicely on the canvas.

Pin and edgestitch the quilted/patchwork embroidery piece to the base cloth.

MOUNT TO CANVAS

Lay the canvas face down on the wrong side of the fabric. Use painter's tape to hold your fabric in place while you check for centering/evenness. Once you're sure your fabric is positioned where you want it, use the staple gun to secure your fabric on the long sides of the frame.

CORNERS & SHORT ENDS

Bring the corners of the fabric on the short ends up against the canvas much like you would if you were wrapping a gift. Take your time here--this part can be frustrating and a little fussy. The more you can smooth the fabric and get it to "hug" the canvas, the better the final result will be.

Once again, use painter's tape to hold the corners in place until you're ready to staple. Always check how things look from the front of the canvas. Getting misplaced staples out of the fabric without ripping anything is challenging (ask me how I know!).

Nicely finished corners should look something like this!

When you like how everything looks, staple with wild abandon!

Now you have some tailored embroidery pieces to find a spot for!

What is your favorite way to display finished embroidery pieces?

Thimblenest Thursdays: Make a Bag for Mismatched Socks

New socks always look so nice hanging on the racks in the store--the bright colors and perfectly matched pairs always tempt me to buy more than I need. The story changes, however, once those pairs of perfection make it home--especially with kid-sized socks. Almost instantly, lonely socks start collecting in forlorn piles waiting to be reunited with their perfect match. Who knows where all of those socks go, but often they turn up again. I wanted to create a permanent spot to corral the "present" socks while they wait for the "absent" socks to return.

The tutorial below shows you how to make your own sock-collecting bag. For a fun twist,when you're finished embroidering, your hoop isn't done working. Later it returns as part of the framework for hanging the bag.

MATERIALS

• 10" embroidery hoop
• Medium weight cotton fabric 33.5" x 15.5"
• 1 yard fold over elastic
• Embroidery floss
• Needle
• LOST embroidery design or one of your own

TRANSFER DESIGN AND EMBROIDER

Transfer the embroidery design to the center (horizontally) of your fabric. Place it a little lower than the vertical center (closer to the bottom edge than the top).

Embroider your design.

SEW SIDE SEAMS & BOTTOM EDGE

With right sides facing, sew the side edges together, using a 3/8" seam. Then sew the bottom edges together using a 1/4" seam. Depending on your fabric, you may want to finish the seams with a serger, overlock stitch, or use pinking shears.

HEMS & TIES

Sew a 1/2" hem around the top edge of the bag. Again, because my fabric frayed quite a bit, I serged the edges. You could also use pinking shears or turn the raw edge under 1/4" before sewing your 1/2" hem.

Cut the yard of fold over elastic in half. Sew one piece to the wrong side of the bag at the side (center back) seam and the other to the center front (above the embroidery design). Be sure these seams are strong--they will hold most of the weight of the bag.

HANG BAG & BEGIN COLLECTING SOCKS

"Hoop" the finished bag, so that the hem extends above the edge of the embroidery hoop and tighten well. Make sure to keep the elastic ties free.

Hang the bag in a handy spot like the laundry room or a closet by tying the elastic ties over a closet rod or hanger.

Start collecting socks who are missing their perfect match; don't forget to check the bag whenever you do laundry and pair up socks from time to time.

What do you do with socks without mates?

Thimblenest Thursdays: Embroidered elbow patch tutorial

Regardless of which hemisphere you're in right now, the season in most places is cardigan-friendly (not too hot, not too cold). The following tutorial will show you how to brighten up a cardigan or sweater with embroidered elbow patches.

Materials:

• knit or woven fabric for patches (minimum 4" x 6"/10 cm x 15 cm)
• cardigan or sweater
• embroidery design (the clover design I used is found here)
• lightweight interfacing
• pinking shears
• embroidery thread
• water-soluble fabric marker
• patch pattern (mine was 3.5" x 5.5"/9 cm x 14 cm)
• seam roll (or a rolled up magazine, catalog, etc.)

Prep Cardigan & Pattern/Embroider

Try your cardigan on and mark your elbow point (and where you will center the patches) on each sleeve using a pin, chalk, or fabric marker.

In Word, Inkscape, or another program, draw and print an oval the size you want your finished patch to be.

Cut out the patch pattern and trace its outline onto both pieces of patch fabric.

Transfer your embroidery design to the center of each patch oval. Make sure there is at least 1/4" between the outer edges of the design and the entire outside edge of the patch.

Embroider your design.

Prep Finished Patches

Cut close to traced outline of your patch, leaving a little extra allowance. 

Adhere interfacing to the back of each patch.

Carefully cut out the patch with pinking shears, cutting directly on the traced outline.

Find the center of each patch by folding into quarters and mark.

Center the patch over the elbow point you marked on the cardigan sleeve.

Sew Patches to Cardigan

Pin or hand baste the patch securely in place.

Sew the patches permanently onto the sweater using the Twisted Lazy-Daisy Edge Stitch, blanket stitch, running stitch, or another of your choice.

Tips

Originally I planned to make my patches with knit fabric, but ultimately I loved the subtle gray and white stripe and woven won out. I think this project would work well with either knit or woven fabrics. 

Sewing patches onto a preexisting sleeve was more challenging than I expected. Inserting a sleeve roll into the sleeve allows you to use both hands and maneuver the pieces more confidently as you stitch.

Because of its circular shape, the patch will want to shift some as you stitch. Try and go with it, but make sure you keep the centers of your patch and sleeve aligned.

If you use this tutorial or any other project from feelingsstitchy.com, please be sure to share them in the Feeling Stitchy Flickr Group.